Antiques stoves look great, but don’t ignore the Good, Bad, and Ugly

AntiqueStove

About 20 years ago, I ran across the most beautiful Okeefe & Merritt stove. It was in awesome condition (not the one pictured). It had a chrome top with four burners and a bitchin’ pancake grill in the middle. The built in salt and pepper shakers were still perfect, and the clock (though not working) had all its parts. My wife and I moved it from one rental home to another, storing it lovingly, waiting to put it into our own home. We eventually bought and moved into our own home. Problem: there was no way this 40 inch range was going to fit into our tiny new kitchen. I finally had to let her go (the stove, not the wife).

 

Antiques stoves are gorgeous, and they are pretty good cookers as well. The most common brands are Okeefe & Merritt, Wedgewood, and Chambers. Other than the cool retro look, these stoves are good because of the materials used. They have the qualities that make high end ranges better for your kitchen. The antiques’ and today’s high end ranges have solid, well insulated boxes, which lets them maintain even temperatures. It’s that simple.

Although there are other brands of antique stoves, I would recommend sticking with either the Okeefe & Merrit or the Wedgewood. The Chambers ranges, though a good solid range, and really the Cadillac of it’s era, present some maintenance issues. As the “Cadillac”, there were a lot less sold. What this means to you as the owner of one, is that finding a repair technician that is familiar with it, could be a bit of a challenge. The Okeefe & Merritt and Wedgewoods are very common, and you are more likely to find a technician familiar with their idiosyncrasies. Peoples Choice (SaveMyAppliance.com), I am proud to say, is very familiar with them.

Here are some of the pros and cons to these beautiful old ranges:

Pros:
Good bakers

Solid cast iron burners

Fairly simply functional parts

Heavy porcelain and chrome finishes

Awesome retro look

 

Cons:

“Always on” pilots for the top burners and for the oven and broiler. This uses gas, unlike modern ranges that use electronic ignition. It will also add significant heat to the kitchen in both the winter (good) and the summer (bad).

The user needs to learn the basics of the lighting the pilots, particularly the oven and broiler pilots, which can occasionally need relighting.

Although these stoves have oven lights, and clocks, they are rarely safely usable without having the old wiring replaced with new, and the clocks rebuilt (there are no functional cooking aspects that require electricity).

I normally advise against having these stoves in rental properties. Since the user needs to be somewhat familiar with the operation of the stove, particularly the pilot lighting, nuisance service calls are common when new tenants move in, simply because they aren’t familiar with the stove. If you want the stove because it fits the décor of the house, and would add value at the time of sale, consider storing it in the garage, until that time comes.

You can sometimes find these old stoves for relatively low prices, but in most cases they are going to need at least a little bit of repair. If the physical parts of the stove are intact, you can expect to spend between $150 and $700 to get the burners, oven, and broiler in good working order. Avoid any that have missing or broken parts, unless you are prepared for even more expense. Of course, if you want one totally refurbished with new porcelain and chrome, expect to pay as much as you would for a high end professional range, somewhere North of $3,000. By the way, the one in the picture, that belongs to a customer, will be for sale in the Summer of 2016.

If you have questions about these great old ranges, please contact me through SaveMyAppliance.com

Rich Johnson

The Quick and Easy way to win the Lottery-it’s right under your. . .

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A lot of people say “When I win the lottery…”, followed by the fantastic, generous, greedy, philanthropic, misguided, whimsical, etc., things they will by or places they will go.  I had a friend while I was living in Southern California, who faithfully bought his lottery tickets twice a week.  He told me “Rich, I hope I DON’T  win a million dollars”  Incredulous, I asked him why not?  I assumed he bought Lotto tickets every week so he would win a million dollars. His answer:  “If I win a million dollars, it’s just enough to screw up my life.  I’ll think that I have a bucket of money, overspend, and probably end up worse off than I was, and surely broke.”  He followed that up with “Nope, if I win the Lottery, it better be in the tens or hundreds of millions of dollars.  Then it’ll be tough for me to screw it up.”

 

What the heck does this have to do with appliances?  At http://www.SaveMyAppliance.com  we try to answer these kind of probing questions.  I recently read a post that says the socks lost in your dryer turn into Tupperware lids.  Funny, yes, but I knew it was misleading.  I KNOW where the socks go.

 

Here’s a typical scenario.  You (and I hope I am addressing men as well as women) sort your laundry, pile it up, and one pile by one pile, you put it in the washer then the dryer.  In the folding or putting away part of this routine, you discover you’re missing a sock.

 

Before I continue, I have a permanent solution to lost socks.  Do as I do, and only buy black or white socks.  You can’t tell me you need those argyle or chartreuse or whatever the heck other weird socks.  Black. . . .White.   It’s the KISS principle.

 

Since 93.7% of you won’t do this, to the 6.3%:  You are truly amazing individuals.  I’ll continue.  You look thoroughly inside the dryer drum; you pull out the lint filter; you put your nose to the carpet, like a bloodhound, and sniff your way back to where you started, several times.  Finally you give up.  The freakin’ dryer ate another sock.  Go figure.

 

Meanwhile, that lowly sock, is snickering at you, while it’s lying comfortably under the dryer (or the washer), or sometimes behind the washer or dryer.  Now, I have to admit that occasionally the dryer will eat a sock.  Not exactly, but there is a seal between the dryer drum and the dryer frame, that allows the drum to turn freely, but keeps the warm air inside.  Once in a blue moon [in case you ever wondered, a blue moon is the third full moon of a season] a sock or other small garment will work its way passed the drum seal, and end up in the dryer cabinet, where it will rest for eternity.  This can actually happen in the washer as well, whether you have a front load or a top load washer, so the lost sock might have been eaten by the washer, not the dryer.  A good preventative measure to use is a small “lingerie bag”, to wash tiny garments.  How many baby garments have been “lost” in the laundry??

 

Not too often, but once in a blue moon, we are called out on a dryer or washer problem where the cause is the lost garment.  Don’t fret about it.  I thought you just might want to know.

 

So, what about winning the lottery?????  If you take a little time and clean under your washer and dryer, you are likely going to find a lot of lost items (I found a missing diamond ring once), and maybe, just maybe, you’ll find that lottery ticket, and maybe you’ll go online or down to the Quickie Mart, and become an instant millionaire.  Someone has to win, right?

 

Thanks for listening, and if you happen to need a dryer repair, go to SaveMyAppliance.com

 

Rich Johnson

October 12, 2015

 

 

Home Warranty Insurance-Is it the bee’s knees?

blog-9-20-15Is pulling a youngster out of the dryer a repair covered by your home warranty??  What good is that home warranty insurance policy you just got with your new home, or bought as your ‘repair anything’ policy?  Is it fool’s gold, or better than sliced bread?

Most people learn about home warranties when they buy a house.  Either the seller provides one as a benefit of the sale, or the buyers buy one as a hedge against unknown problems.  Most of the cost between $300 and $500.  When you are making a huge purchase, like a house, the relative cost of these policies can give you peace of mind for the first year of your ownership.  I would guess that this is the majority of policies sold, and your realtor usually has their favorite purveyor of these policies.

Some of the home warranty customers we have run across. buy a policy as their chosen method of dealing with any household repairs that come up:  plumbing, electrical, appliances, furnaces,  AC, and any major mechanical system.

Peoples Choice has done appliance repairs for some home warranty companies since 1997.   I am in a position to give you my, oh so humble opinion, about the worthiness of these policies, based on our experience.

First, let me tell you how these policies generally work.  I will refer specifically to appliance repairs, but no matter what trade you need, the system pretty much works the same way.  Let’s say your dishwasher stops draining.  It is VERY important that you don’t call a repair company (even if it’s Peoples Choice).  You must call (or go online) to the insurance company.  If you call a repair company first, you will likely not get any repair covered, so don’t screw up this first crucial step. The insurance company will want any specifics you have such your policy number,  the brand of the appliance, when it failed, and what seems to be wrong with it.  They will then look into their list of approved appliance repair companies and assign you one.  Now, the exact algorithm or method of picking is not totally clear, but none-the-less, your repair will be assigned to someone they have approved.  The insurance company will then send a “dispatch” or “work order” to that repair company, and the repair company (sometimes Peoples Choice) will contact you for an appointment.  A co-pay or deductible will be paid to the repair company.  The deductible amounts vary from insurance policy  to insurance policy, but they generally seem to run between about  $45 annd $65.  The good thing is that throughout the course of the repair, this is the only amount you will have to pay.  It doesn’t matter how many trips, how much diagnosis, or even if you have a second company assigned for follow up, in my experience, this is all you will pay, until the problem is resolved.

I will caution you that if you’re buying a house and there is an appliance problem that does not get fixed during escrow, you will likely not get the appliance covered, as it is a pre-existing condition.  The only exception is that some policies will cover the seller during the listing period, as long as they sign up at the time of listing the house for sale.  Your realtor can fill you in on this option, if available.

Next, I’ll give you a couple of possible scenarios with your broken dishwasher:

1)  Let’s say your pesky dishwasher happens to be a Harvest Gold relic from past decades, and a part that is necessary to repair it, is no longer available.  First, the insurance company will see if they can locate the part or a substitute somewhere, or if it can be rebuilt.  If not, you may have hit the jackpot, and the insurance company will replace your dishwasher or other appliance,  with a new comparable model.

I will take a moment here to inform you of some fairly recent developments.   There are many more options available for you home warranty policy than in the past.  Some will NOT replace your unrepairable dishwasher; they will pay you what it would have cost to repair the dishwasher (if the parts were available).  Some policies do not cover specific appliances or systems, or you can eliminate items from the policy.  If you are the one choosing the policy, make sure you are aware of what and what is NOT covered.  In a two refrigerator kitchen, some policies will  only  cover one of them.

2)  Your dishwasher can be repaired, which totally pisses you off because you were hoping it was trashed beyond help, so you would get a new one.  Fret not.  One thing that customers are rarely aware of is the fact that (in all transactions I have experienced) you the customer can “cash out” of any repair.  I would always recommend that you ask the repair company to let you know the cost of repair before they order any parts.  This way, you can weigh your decision to repair it or “cash out” and use the repair money towards buying a new dishwasher (or whatever appliance).  I am pretty sure the insurance company is very happy to do this, since you will now have a brand new appliance, that is highly unlikely to cost them any additional money.  Win Win.

When you buy a house, I think these policies are a really good safety blanket.  During your first year, you will get to know your appliances and systems.  If you have any that may be in imminent danger of failure, you may decide to renew.  As I mentioned, some customers use these policies as their total repair plan for the systems in their home, limiting their repair expense to whatever the co-pay or deductible is.  I would caution you to compare the cost of the policy and possible deductibles closely.  It may be comfortable for you to use them this way, but I doubt whether they are economically the best way to handle repairs.  I prefer to put aside the cost of the policy and deductibles, and pay for any repairs if and when I need them, out of my own pocket.  Plus, I get to choose who does the repair.  The other thing to consider is the repair company that will be doing the work.  You do not get to choose the repair company, the insurance company chooses them.  Some are great, and some are less than great, so it is a bit of a crapshoot.

If you have any questions on this topic, please feel free to email me through our website www.SaveMyAppliance.com

Rich Johnson

September 20, 2015

You have better odds in Vegas-Don’t lay your refrigerator down!

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If you like going to Las Vegas, you should know that the Craps table has ok odds. If you bet the minimum on the pass/don’t pass, then add an odds bet behind it, all you need to do is catch a ‘run’, and make a few bucks.

If you don’t care for Vegas (or gambling), you should never lay a refrigerator down in your vehicle or in a trailer when you need to transport it.

When my wife and I are riding along on the freeway, either one of us (I taught her well!) will point at, usually a pick up, and say “There goes another refrigerator gambler”, when we see a refrigerator laying on its side in the bed of the truck, or other vehicle.

You may have heard this advice in the past, and you may have wondered if it’s an urban legend or some such nonsense. Heck, some people probably say to themselves (truthfully) “I’ve moved refrigerators laying down before, and never had a problem”. How can this be, if you’re told to never do it? What gives?

Here is the end to the urban legend. This will explain why it’s not just a fable or “Old Wives’ Tale”. Refrigerators have a compressor that moves refrigerant gas through tubing to make the refrigerator cold. I must digress for a moment to clarify one thing. Refrigerators don’t actually make food cold. The way they work is to remove heat from the food, which lets the food become cold. Thanks for indulging my moment of clarity.

Anyway, the compressor, that usually sits at the bottom rear of the refrigerator, has this tubing connected to it. In the bottom of the compressor is oil, that keeps the compressor running smoothly and quietly (sorta quiet). When you lay the refrigerator down flat on its side, the oil can leave the compressor, and enter the refrigerant tubing.

This is where the gambling comes in, and why some people have done this successfully. On some compressors, the tubing comes out of one side of the compressor, so that if you happen to lay it down with the tubing facing upward, lucky you! no problem. You might also get lucky, even if you laid it down wrong if, after you stand the refrigerator up, you let it sit for a while before turning it on or plugging it in. This is because the oil might migrate or drain back to the compressor, where it belongs.

Okay, okay. Why does it matter whether the oil gets into the refrigerant tubing? They’re obviously connected. So what? What can happen is that if the oil remains in the tubing when you turn on the refrigerator, it will get sucked (the compressor has a sucking end and a blowing end), into the rest of the tubing. There is a section of that tubing that has a diameter about the size of a toothpick. If the oil gets into that section, it can cause a blockage that will result in poor cooling of your refrigerator. For most refrigerators, this is the kiss of death, since the repair is very involved (meaning expensive). It is more likely to happen on used refrigerators because over time, some sediment accumulates in the oil of the compressor, making it even more likely to cause an obstruction.

If you laid your refrigerator down, you can increase the odds in your favor by waiting at least several hours before you turn it on. It is OK to lean it at a very extreme angle; you just can’t lay it flat. Even if you didn’t lay it down, it is always a good idea to wait 15 minutes or so after it is in place before you turn it on, to allow any sloshed oil and/or sediment to settle back to the bottom of the compressor.

If you love gambling go to Vegas. If you don’t want to gamble with having to buy a new refrigerator, don’t lay it down flat, if you have to transport it.

Peace, Out

Rich Johnson

9-4-15

Un-sexy remodeling tips everyone should know

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Lately I’ve run into a couple of situations that lead me to give you some invaluable tips when you are planning or executing either a remodel, or building a new structure. I know you’ve heard the saying “plan ahead”, and I also know that remodeling sometimes has to happen “on the fly”. I will suggest either plan ahead, or plan for the unknown. And gosh darn it, if it ain’t right, fix it! It’ll save you time and money in the long run.

You might recognize this problem more readily if you had a far off view. This is the water supply valve for the dishwasher. The two major problems here are 1) The dishwasher is going to stick out of the kitchen cabinet about two inches. I guess you could solve this after-the-fact by cutting a hole in the dishwasher to allow the valve to extend into the dishwasher, then foam the whole thing into place with a can of spray foam. I have actually seen “solutions” similar to this. 2) One function of the water shut off valve is to, well, shut off the water in case of a problem. This would prove a little difficult when the shut off valve is behind the dishwasher. The solution here was to cut an arm size hole in the adjacent cabinet. Brilliant!

In an effort to convince our technicians that my brain in still intact, I occasionally ask them “What is the most dangerous thing we work with?”. By now, they roll their eyes and answer correctly: “Water”. We work with electricity, gas, sharp metal, we run with pencils and scissors, we cut ourselves on unfinished metal edges (manufacturers are very cautious about the consumer, but technicians are apparently an unprotected class) and we sometimes see if something is hot by touching it (no kidding). But with all of that, the most dangerous thing we work with is water. A tiny leak over time does a huge amount of damage. A large leak can ruin your home in a matter of minutes or hours.

All water, electrical, and gas associated devices should be carefully planned and installed. Shut off valves and/or breakers should be accessible, and please, please, please, let the plumber, or electrician, or a qualified installer make the connections.

Let me take the installation issue a step further. We see a fair number of “installation related” issues in appliances that were not installed by a qualified person. Electricians and plumbers can make the perfect connection to the appliance. . . . .if the space is properly prepared, and ALL of the rough out locations for utilities are located where the manufacturer says they should be located. I haven’t seen an installation instruction sheet that says “locate the water/electrical/drain wherever the hell you want to”. If this is not done the installer (who is being pressured by the homeowner or contractor, or their own schedule) could force the installation, without knowing a future functional issue or future problem has been created.

The real and easy path to preventing these things from happening is to pick your appliances, fixtures, and any “installed” items in the planning stage. After choosing your appliances, make sure your contractor reads, understands, and executes the cabinet openings and utility connections as stated in the installation instructions for each appliance. Every one is different. Since work is done by sub-contractors, it is important that your General Contractor insist that his subs install utilities as specified by both code, and the appliance manufacturers’ instructions.

I understand not being able to decide on some of these things in the planning stages. Typically you may only plan the amount of space you allow, based on standard sizes (by the way, usually the ONLY standard openings for kitchen appliances are the dishwasher and freestanding ranges). If this is the case, ask your contractor to leave the utility connections “moveable” until an exact model is chosen. Done up front, there should be minimal (if any) additional costs to do so

Back to problems:

Another water catastrophe I recently encountered, was the slow but sure type. A customer has a beautiful built-in refrigerator in their five year old home. They first noticed that there was mold/mildew on the pantry wall, which is located behind the refrigerator. Investigating further, they found a small amount water was creeping out from under the refrigerator, almost unnoticeable. We uninstalled the refrigerator to find the connection to the water valve was not properly seated. Over time, it failed and a small amount of water continually dripped out. First, obviously the shut off valve could not be accessed even though the homeowner knew they had a water problem, likely behind the refrigerator. Second, instead of a simple connection repair, they are faced with replacing drywall, replacing wood flooring, and treating framing to prevent dry rot in the wood framing.

Whether a refrigerator you can roll or one that is built-in, they should have an accessible water shut off valve. Period. In this case the easy solution is simply locating the the shut off valve facing into the pantry, so that it can be accessed, or at least have an access cover and hole that would allow you to reach through the wall to access the shut off valve, if it were necessary. Personally, I would have the shut off valve facing the pantry, so that if I had a problem there, as in this case, I would have the ability to see it every time I went into the pantry.

Feel free to contact us a www.SaveMyAppliance.com if you have remodeling questions.

 

Rich

Convert your tiny space into a Tiny Apartment!

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This is a story of why I am a genius.  I was really looking forward to a relaxed weekend.  That all ended when Jen and I discovered that our 40 gallon propane, AO Smith water heater was bleeding to death.  The picture is of this champion of tanks, lying in state.

 

This might normally be a pretty quick operation, but I looked at it as an opportunity to repair the drywall holes in the water heater closet, and tie into electric and water for our shed, from inside the water heater closet.  This was something I was anticipating doing when it was time for a new water heater.  Now was the time.  First step was removing the old water heater, and doing a temporary installation of the new one, adjacent to the water heater closet.  This temporary installation was only necessary because of Jen.  I, being the brutally manly man that I am, could survive with cold showers (or no showers).  But, you know, “happy wife, happy life”.

 

Everything was going smoothly, and I was ecstatic about how it all turned out.  I was painting primer on the walls (even I like a pretty room), and admiring what a beautiful space it was, when a thought came to me.  It was, in all modesty, complete and utter genius.

 

I don’t know about where you live, but in California, there is a dearth of rental units.  It is particularly acute in the area where we live, which is close to Cal Poly University, and 17,000 students.  This came to mind.  You may also be aware that there is a growing interest in “Tiny Houses”.  They are popular enough that HG TV has a program devoted to them called “Tiny House Hunters” .  I am somewhat of a devotee of Dale Carnegie, who coined the phrase “If life gives you lemons, make lemonade”.  I was gonna make me a big ‘ol pitcher of lemonade!  If they can make a livable house in under 200 square feet, why can’t I make an apartment even smaller.

 

With a little ingenuity, and stuff I mostly had lying around, I completed the apartment, and put the following ad on Craigslist:

 

“Furnished single room ‘tiny’ apartment with private entrance.  Includes stove; single stand up bed, bathroom, television, access to yard, shared wash line, easy to clean.  No pets. No smokers.  Utilities included.   9 square feet.  Please respond to set  up viewing appointment.

 

The response to my ad was overwhelming.  I thought all I would get was college students, but ended up renting it to a 91 year old man.  Earl is a sweetheart.  He was sold on it because of the SUB (stand up bed).  I was sold on him because of what he said:  “I always wanted to die standing up, and the odds are now swingin’ in my favor”.

Here are the pictures of this awesome space, starting with the entry:

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First, stepping up to the front door, I left the water heater installed outside (hell, it’s California!). When you open the door, WOW, you are struck by the total utility (and beauty) of the space. I used an industrial look for the lighting, and the water heater vent pipe provides great ventilation. The S.U.B. (stand up bed) is high quality, top of the line, and it makes watching the latest espisode of “House of Cards” very comfortable. I really like the look of the antique vanity sink, and the hand held shower can easily be used by stepping just outside the front door (a courtesy curtain is included). The toilet is standard size, and I don’t care how drunk you get, you’ll never fall off it! Cool outdoor wash line will be shared with the main house residents (Jen and me).

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You too can get into the income property game with the complete plans for converting your tiny space into a valuable apartment.  AND, since it is under 120 square feet. . . NO permits!  Just send your $29 check or money order, along with $18.75 for shipping and handling, to get a set of plans.  If you act now, I’ll even throw in my latest plans and instructions for “You can do AirBNB:  Convert you hall closet or large chest of drawers into a very cozy sleeping room”  Cha-ching!

 

Peace Out

Rich

 

You ain’t seen nuthin’ yet. . .Sink in a Washer

The technology developed over the last 15 years or so will continue to weep into appliances (and appliance repairs). Not only are manufacturers using tech to increase efficiency, they are developing new niches that can command higher prices for their products. Check out the latest washer, that has a built in sink. Hey, maybe you can wash the dog in there?!?!??

Sink-in–Washing Machine

So what do you buy???? First, anyone who has to have the latest, whatever-it-is, click on some other blog, cuz that’s not my bag. My basic suggestion is to avoid any feature you haven’t had in the past, or at least wait until a new feature has been proven over a period of time. Take the time to look at reviews of whatever it is you want to buy. Use the old KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid). Sales people (whom I love) are trained to offer you all the latest gadgets, which typically translates into a higher priced item. The real question is “Will I use the “Extra Rinse” feature?”; “Do I really want to change my refrigerator temperature with my phone?”. You get the picture. It’s cool stuff, but if you won’t really use it 1) Why pay more for it, and 2) Any added feature just increases the possibility of a needed repair, which will, again, cost you more money.  Good for Peoples Choice Appliance Repairs, but maybe not so good for you.

Now, if you want to be so cool, that whatever you touch freezes, then you gotta get this little niche product.  How about a $400 toaster.  At that price, it better feed it to you as well! (maybe it does, I didn’t read all the details)

$400 Toaster (with 8 speed transmission)

You may want your appliances to look good, and match your decor, but in the end you need them to do the job, be fairly priced, and last forever.  Take your time, look at reviews, and don’t get what you won’t use.

Sayonara

Rich

Visit dishwashingexpert.com

Visit http://www.dishwashingexpert.com/

Here are a few useful dishwasher tips that dishwasher owners should know to make sure they are getting the great results from their dishwashers.

General Dishwasher Tips

  • Always scrape off excess food before loading.
  • There is no need to wash your dishes in the sink first when using modern dishwashers and high quality Finish® products.
  • Load and sort dishes according to manufacturer instructions, allowing water to circulate and reach all items. See How to Load a Dishwasher
  • Ensure sprayer arms can rotate and spray water freely. They get blocked by large items such as utensils and pan handles so always give the sprayer arm a spin before pressing start.
  • Avoid using old or damp detergent (as its cleaning abilities would be limited) and use a high quality Finish® detergent.
  • Read and follow all the detergent pack instructions and use right dosages.
  • Finish® rinse aids offer spot and film protection, boost drying results, and deliver shine.
  • Remove and clean the filters regularly.
  • Use Finish® Dishwasher Cleaner to clear build-up of grease and limescale once a month.

Energy and water saving dishwasher tips

  • Do not pre-rinse dishes by hand.  Energy Star says on average, a consumer uses 20 gallons of water per load pre-rinsing dishes.
  • Fully load the dishwasher, leaving room for water to circulate.
  • Use the auto or normal wash cycle as your every day program.
  • Check and clean drains, filters, sprayer arms and rubber seals regularly to ensure efficient operation.

Larger Size Laundry Solutions/Problems

My brother-in-law, Bill Bowman, told me that a good friend of his had died recently and that the he didn’t attend the funeral.  I asked him why he hadn’t gone, and Bill said “He’s not coming to mine, so I’m not going to his!”

A beautiful Christmas gift Dec 2008 in Pismo

So, you absolutely love the new larger, energy efficient laundry units, but they don’t quite fit into the laundry space. The biggest problem is with the dryer.  The most critical part of any dryer is the venting system.  This carries moisture out of the dryer on air flow, to the outside of the house.  Heat is just a helper.  The heated water vapor is more easily transported on the air current.  You can get the dryer as hot as you want, but if the air flow out the venting is restricted, you will have drying problems such as: too long to dry or clothes wet at the end of a cycle.  The other problem you could have that you may not even know, is robbing you of precious energy.  The dryer may be detecting that the clothes are not dry, and simply extending the drying time, using up electricity and/or gas unnecessarily. The reason this happens may be that the depth of you new dryer (measured from front to back).  The dryer venting is typically 4″ round.  It is important that you use a good elbow or gently curve the dryer venting from the back of the dryer to the exit point at the wall.  Most venting is not rigid, and you can easily crush and restrict by pushing the dryer too far in.  This may be for aesthetic reasons, or to allow opening/closing of a door. A couple of ways you can overcome this.  First, measure your new laundry equipment carefully.  Make sure that you have the space you need, and plan for any changes ahead of your purchase.  There are is a product made by a couple of different companies that will give you and extra 3 inches to work with.  It is approximately 30″ long and 3 .5 inches deep (the width of a 2×4 wall stud).  It installs recessed into the wall space behind the dryer, and allows the flexible dryer vent duct to be kind of folded into the wall space.  The existing dryer ducting is connected to this product either at the top, or at the bottom.  It does require some “remodeling” of the laundry wall, but is sometimes the only way you can functionally install your new laundry pair.  They also have room for the gas connection, although as a retrofit, this will add a fair amount of work to the installation of the product, and as long as the gas line is not causing a problem, leave it as is. There are also “telescoping” dryer vent connectors that only require a depth of 2 1/2 inches, which saves you 1 1/2 inches off the normal 4″ sizing.  Because they are wider, the air capacity is the same as a 4″ inch round dryer duct.  Their downside is that the installation can be a pain, and because of acute angles, they do somewhat restrict air flow. An extreme option, though sometimes the only option, is to install a custom vent that aligns with your new dryer precisely.  You slide the dryer into this vent that would typically stick out from the wall only an inch.  These require precise installation, and would not be recommended without looking at other options. One of those “other options” would be re-routing your dryer vent system so that it enters the laundry area at a point that both allows you to connect without restriction, and allows your dryer to be pushed back far enough to not cause any door or aesthetic problems.  If you have a dead space or closet behind the laundry, you might be able to utilize this space as an access point for a close-in dryer vent and/or gas connection.  If your vent goes down and out, maybe you could go up  and out.  This would typically fall into the category that will get you a free estimate from a contractor like us to find out what you options and costs are. Please feel free to email me from our website:  peopleschoiceservices.com, with any questions you have, or if you might need a Duct Weasel service on your dryer vent system, pretty much anywhere on the Central Coast.  Chow!  Rich Johnson