Our repairs are flat rate priced, based mainly on the type of appliance, the technical level of the repair, access, and whether it will be a one trip, or multiple trip job. This provides you with an exact price for your repair. It doesn’t matter if you get a fast technician, or a more methodical technician. It also doesn’t matter if it requires unexpected follow-up visits. You will only pay the price quoted for a given repair. And, for your comfort in approving a repair, we guarantee our parts for a full year.

Finally, in addressing whether to do a repair, after you get the quote, you need to look at the physical condition of the appliance. Things like rusty dishwasher racks, doors that don’t open or close properly, and broken handles and such, can sometimes be quite costly, and may signal that the appliance is too old or in too poor of condition to reasonably repair. If the physical condition is good, a repair that is less than 50% of the replacement cost is normally an ok repair to complete.

If you do some appliance shopping before deciding to do a repair, keep in mind some of the pitfalls that can add to the cost or difficulty of replacing a broken appliance. About the only things that are “standard” size in the kitchen or laundry are the dishwasher 24″ and/or a freestanding stove 30″. DISHWASHERS: The most common problem in replacing them is the height. If you have added new flooring (particularly tile or hardwood) to your kitchen, you may have a problem. The recommended height (from top of finished floor to top of cabinet opening) is 34 1/4″. You can usually “squeeze” a new one in if you have a height of 33 3/4″, but if you have less than that, you have a problem to solve. STOVES that have a flange over the sides to cover the countertop gap are another possible problem. These are called “slide-ins”. They are more decorative because of the side-gap coverage, and unfortunately you will also find that they are fairly expensive.

If your stove does not have a wall behind it (like on a peninsula or island), you are usually forced to buy the slide-in because they also do not have a “console” sticking up from the rear of the stove. If you are replacing a slide in stove, and there IS a wall behind it, you can usually fit a standard 30″ freestanding stove in the same opening, and they are substantially less expensive.
LAUNDRY ROOM: The most important measurement is the depth (front to rear) of the appliance. Some laundry units, especially the newer front loading washers, can be up to 4″ deeper than other models. Where this comes into play is when either the washer or dryer might be close to a door. If the appliances stick out too far, sometimes the door may not be able to be opened. If this is the case, and you try to push the laundry units back against the wall, you can cause a dryer vent restriction that will cause a functioning problem.

I hope this information is helpful to you. Please feel free to call us or email us with any questions you might have regarding appliance repairs. We want you to have a GREAT repair experience.